Men’s Watches Played a Major Role in World War I & II
Mens watches are no longer just a functional device to tell the time. They are a status symbol, fashion accessory and yes, tell the time too. Today you can tell the time from a wide selection of devices and places. Your Blackberry, pager, cell phone, DVD player, car radio, computer screen and even the out dated walk clock but walk in to any boardroom and you will see that the wristwatch is still a key piece of a man’s wardrobe. The more prestigious the position in the company, the more prestigious the watch. A CEO from Fortune 500 company is likely to be sporting a watch with a name like Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Vacheron or Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Only 100 years ago wristwatches was worn only by Kings and Queens. Back then the pocket watch was the choice of a real gentleman. The pocket watch had its turn as the status symbol and is still considered to be a mark of a gentleman.
At the turn of the century the wristwatch was known as a "wristlet" and was worn mostly by women. Many said the wristlet was a fad and would soon fade. The makers of fine timepieces of the day also did not think the wristlet was likely to be around for any length of time. The wristlet was too small to keep accurate time and could not hold up to being mishandled. Any small jostle and the timepiece would break. As improvements to manufacturing processes came about so did improvements to men’s watches. Very few companies focused on wristwatches and those that did tended to focus on watches with women in mind.
During World war I the fighting men discovered that having a men’s watch had its advantages. The pocket watch was hard to get out of their pockets while in combat and often the pocket watch took a beating that proved too much for it. Soldiers started fashioning men’s watches out of leather straps with a place for a pocket watch. This freed their hands and allowed them to tell the time whenever they wanted. The German Navy adopted men’s watches in the late 1880’s to help coordinate attacks. Soon after they discovered they could improve their artillery accuracy by timing the firing and impacts of the war heads.
The Anglo-Boer Was in South Africa of the late 1890’s proved a valuable test for men’s watches. While the British were significantly outnumbered by the Boer troops the British attackers were able to create precision attacks and distractions through the use of timed events. This advantage proved highly successful allowing the British to defeat the Boer.
Men’s watches proved to be such a powerful addition to the soldier’s arsenal that a line of wristwatches was introduced. The advertisement read "The most reliable timekeeper in the World for Gentlemen going on Active Service or for rough wear." The line of watch was known as The Company’s Service Watch.
The next innovations that moved gents watches forward was the adjustable, expandable and flexible bracelet and wire loops that were fashioned in to the sides of the wristwatch case so leather straps could be looped through them to form a strap. The military adopted the new style immediately. This was a major turning point for wrist watches.
The crystal, the glass that covers the face of wristwatches, was frequently damaged and scratched during combat so wristwatch manufacturers resolved the problem by introducing "pierced metal covers". They were often referred to as shrapnel guards. The shrapnel guard was a metal grill placed over the face of the watch. This prevented accidental contact and scratching of the crystal while still allowing the soldier to easily read the time. Some soldiers elected to use a leather strap to cover the face of the watch. This was a less common solution to protecting the crystal but was highly effective. It was found that the leather cover had the added benefit of keeping the time piece dry and more dust free so it was adopted by troops in extreme environments like Australia and Africa.
By World war II the wristwatch was no longer considered to be a fad or novelty. They were now seen as required by the modern soldier. Allied troops were largely issued wristwatches. Many models had the hands and numbers of wristwatch painted with radium paint which allowed them to glow slightly in the dark making it easier for soldiers to see them. Companies were trying hard to meet the demand and new companies were popping up all over the world. Wilsdorf & Davis, Ltd. was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and his brother. In 1915 this now successful company was renamed to The Rolex Watch Company, Ltd., which is now a household name synonymous with quality and prestige.
Hans Wilsdorf had been a supporter of men’s watches even at the turn of the century. Time has proven that his vision was correct. Wilsdorf experimented with many devices and concepts to improve accuracy and reliability. He ultimately created many innovations that are helped to bring wristwatches to the next level. Many of his inventions are still in use today. Rolex is credited with inventing waterproof men’s watches, the dustproof watch, the automatically changing date watch and many innovations around the movement itself.
Wilsdorf had the foresight to send his wristwatches to the Neuchatel Observatory in Switzerland for accuracy testing. As a result of Wilsdorf’s efforts and insight Rolex received the distinction of being the first wristwatch to be certified as a chronometer by the School of Horology in Bienne in 1910 and the Class "A" Certificate of Precision from the Kew Observatory in England in 1914. Rolex continues to receive certifications and distinctions even today for the fine watches they manufacture, holding more certification than all other watch making companies combined.
After World War II soldiers returned home still wearing their watches. This sight became a status symbol, war heroes were quickly identified by the watch and the public quickly adopted wrist watches. Designs have continued to change, functions added but the wristwatch has remained a core piece of a man’s wardrobe to this day.
Tags: Men